One of the topics covered by long and pleasant discussion among those love wine on the production of wines in our countryside "forbidden", that is, wines which may not be marketed and, above all their use.
the late summer and autumn gallecole radicicole some of these give rise to winged females that escape from the ground and fly over neighboring plants, laying eggs that will develop individuals sexed. At this point the cycle repeats.
The roots of European vines, unlike the American, are in fact sensitive to the sting of phylloxera and that's why a good part of the Italian wine heritage then went into disrepair.
Because of this aphid, the root tissues affected by serious disorganization, worse, as we have seen, the successive settlements of microorganisms pathogens. The plant then dies and decays considerably.
Finally the problem was solved by grafting European vines, producing quality wines, at the foot that is on the root of ivy or of its hybrids, resistant to the attacks of phylloxera, and that method is still of general application.
But those vines were wild, did not belong to species "European" also called "vinifera" but belonged to the species "labrusca", "riparian", "silvestris", "rupestris", "berlandieri", etc.. and produced insignificant Grappolini, not suitable for the vinification, the production would still be absolutely unprofitable from the economic point of view.
However, crossing each of these two wild species, or a wild species with the American and European vitis vinifera cultivating the plant achieved with adequate support and regular pruning, as it was always with European vines, were obtained for vines that produced the grapes that allowed to produce a wine quite different from traditional ones in Europe, but by no means contemptible, and sometimes even very nice.
It is born from a vine, probably spontaneous, Vitis vinifera Vitis Labrusca for, then from two different species, therefore, properly called "hybrid," capable of producing directly, without grafting of American roots, as was the old European vines and so called "direct producer", so the technical definition of this variety is "direct producer hybrids.
The grapes obtained from red grapes, the wine is sweet and so, with a distinct and strong flavor of wild strawberries.
This is the oldest American vine, introduced to Europe long before the problem arose due to the phylloxera and Vitis species Linnean Labrusca, crossed with Vitis vinifera and its area of \u200b\u200borigin was identified in the Lake Ontario . In France they have their first records in 1820 and in Italy in 1825, so long before interest in the direct producer hybrids, obtained only at the end of the 800 to counter the spread of phylloxera and mildew that were in those years destroying the vineyards throughout the Old Continent. And the introduction of this lives in Europe seems to have been the vehicle which carried the side of the Atlantic the scourge of phylloxera. At first, the spread of the vine Isabella was very slow, prompting some interest for its hardiness and its natural vigor, but the foxy taste, that is wild, the wine was greatly appreciated. However, when the phylloxera began to spread use was clear that this variety aphid was not affected by the terrible, destructive of the roots and, consequently, the whole plant.
The wine it produces, said Fragolino, has a special aroma of strawberries the French call the Anglo-Saxons and cassis framboisier or foxy (foxy). This intense aroma of wild strawberries in the past was not very popular, but for some 'time Fragolino is finding a growing number of admirers, because a wine is light and very fragrant and distinctive flavor from the original foxy. Suitably sweet is very pleasing, especially after meals and between meals, even the consumers are not accustomed to alcohol consumption. Currently it is still producing in some Italian areas and presents forms calm and cool.
Other grape producer hybrid, very resistant to the attacks of phylloxera, it is Clinton, this one from the United States of America, a grape that takes its name from the town of Clinton, Iowa. The Clinton also called Clinto, Crinto, Grinton, U Grintu, was the direct producer hybrids best known and most popular in the Veneto-Friuli area, and its grapes, you get a very nice red wine. At one time, Clinton had spread to various parts of Europe but is now almost disappeared and, as already mentioned, in the past, widely enjoyed and is still very popular among its connoisseurs. This wine has low alcohol alcohol, making it difficult to preserve, as well as the spring of the following wine-making and has a deep purple color that leaves a trace in the thick glasses and bottles and in a particular spot on the tablecloth. The
Clinton is a cross between Vitis labrusca
and Vitis riparia
and once vinified using traditional techniques, presents a significant problem: it enriches
methyl alcohol, a substance which, if taken in abundance - but you should drink hl - causes damage to the optic nerve
and
retina to the interactions that cause the nervous system
.
pause for a bit 'on this wine, very common in Italy until after the middle of last century. It is a sour wine, intense, almost raw and intense red color that leave stains everywhere it is poured. This wine is unique, unmistakable, strong and distinctive taste, fragrant, intense red color, dark / purple, proverbial for indelibly stain the white ceramic cups in which it was paid. Technically, strictly speaking, it is also difficult to be able to define wine, its quality is quite poor, the very low alcohol content (6-8 ° in volume) and the natural shelf life does not go beyond the winter. The maximum spread of this vine has occurred in the last war, to 50-60 years of last century, and has gradually decreased, although not disappeared. Traditionally it was the wine that was drunk in the home country in the autumn-winter waiting for the good wine (the one obtained by conventional screws) mature. For his taste, very sour and very aromatic, it goes very well in our area to nuts, pumpkin baked, roasted chestnuts, sweet potatoes. Other grape
fairly widespread in the past is the bug, a direct producer hybrids obtained by crossing Vitis vinifera Vitis Riparia. It is from France, probably obtained in experimental vineyards at the University of Montpellier and its name, according to some, refers to Bacchus, the ancient Roman god of wine. It is true that the coach who has selected this hybrid's name was just "bug" and the variety obtained was called Baco noir. The history of this grape variety, then, is very similar to Clinton with whom he shares the traditional area of \u200b\u200bsettlement and, above all, the low quality of the wine.
Among the direct producer hybrids of first generation is one of the few in which there is the Vitis vinifera Vitis Labrusca but the European Union, whose characters are more gentle, in fact, clearly evident by comparing this wine with other hybrids, such as Isabella, Clinton , Oberlin, etc.. We have already mentioned that it is a light wine, the taste, with sweet bottom and short life. Manufactured in the middle of summer, does not stand high temperatures for a long time and especially the thermal changes which can be significant as early as September. Basically, with the arrival of autumn, the worm was already finished and the last drunk left no regrets.
Other famous grape producer hybrid obtained by crossing a clone of a clone of Vitis Lambrusca x Vitis riparia is Noax, also known as Fragolino white or, more correctly, Clinton White. The plant is very similar to Clinton, with slender branches, and many vigorous, large leaves and very abundant. The quality of this wine is quite Poor: low grade, high methanol content, strong aroma and flavor foxy (Volpino). As mentioned, it is considered a "Pandora White, has its own pleasure and, perhaps because a true rarity, is sought after by enthusiasts.
The strange story of forbidden wine
addition to the direct producer hybrids mentioned before - the Isabella Fragolino or red, white and Noax or clinton Clinton, were created and circulated that the Oberlin and other hybrids (hybrid between labrusca and vinifera), Elvira and Taylor, (hybrids between Labrusca and repair), the York-Madeira (Labrusca Aestivalis x), the Othello (Labrusca x Riparia x Vinifera) Jacquez and the Herbemont (Aestivalis Cinere x x Vinifera), the latter without the foxy flavor.
As we know, all these wines are not marketable, because they are "wine not wine," the law in fact prohibits the call wines, because only the fermented juice of the fruit of Vitis vinifera can be, for the law, called wine .
We see, then, because they have suffered the conviction.
The spread of these hybrid direct producers, too often regarded as the national solution to the problem at the time of the phylloxera wine, led to an overproduction of wine and the poor perception of the danger they pose to the quality of the product. It was then that intervened
the legislature by March 23, 1931 Law No. 376 which prohibited, reads, "the cultivation of vines producer hybrid except in the provinces where the ministerial bodies" will recognize the utility and in a manner to be determined by ministerial decree . That law did not apply, however, the grapes, then considered not only the daughter but a hybrid Vitis labrusca, but a few years later, with the April 2, 1936 Law No. 729 was extended to it by establishing the norm that the prohibition applies " also to the cultivation of the grape Isabella (Vitis labrusca) under any name to be qualified. This cultivation is also allowed outside of established limits, in cases where it is established that is made only for the purpose of production of grapes for direct consumption.
was obviously intended for direct consumption and consumption as table grapes that his vinificazione.Queste rules were later reproduced in the Consolidation Act of July 16, 1936 Royal Decree No. 1634. The provisions have just seen has never been applied with great strength and is the grape strawberry that other direct producer hybrids continued to be cultivated. Neither the Department has never issued decrees that were supposed to regulate the cultivation.
Can therefore conclude that, apart from the theoretical prohibition of cultivation and no sanctions (except of course the capital could not ask for contributions for the planting of crops of grapes strawberry or Clinton or a worm or Noax!), nothing prevented the time to grow grapes, make wine and to sell it.
You can also conclude that the legislature never intended to prohibit the strawberry wine grape in that it contains a higher than average percentage of methanol, as it is widely believed among the uninitiated.
s get down to our days.
Less favorable is the situation of still wine produced with these grapes, since 1965. Article. 22 Presidential Decree No. 162 February 12, 1965, prohibited, without the frills of words, the vinification of different grapes from Vitis vinifera, however, suffered as a result of protests by farmers, the legislature intervened to correct the law, so art. 1 of Law No 6 April 1966 207 stated that "the detention is prohibited for commercial purposes and trade in musts and wines not comply with the definitions laid down or who have undergone treatment and additions are not allowed or that, even if they meet the definitions and requirements of this Decree, come from vitis vinifera grape varieties other than, except for musts and wines from certain hybrid varieties, the cultivation may be allowed by decree of the Minister of Agriculture and Forestry in relation to particular environmental conditions in some areas and features intrinsic
vines themselves ... We intend to trade prisoners for the purpose of the musts or wines that are in the cellar or in factories or premises of producers and traders. "
It takes very little to understand that the legislature, according to a well-established use, did not know what he was talking about and why it has taken refuge in a general term (hybrid varieties) that says nothing and defers everything to ministerial decrees that may concern both hybrid direct producers, and other hybrids, and the grapes, of which no one knows whether or not a hybrid, but certainly the legislature wanted to safeguard, since it was just the main product for which it was requested correction of the law! The law, however, contains a considerable improvement of the legal situation of Pandora: The Law of 1936 allowed it only the direct use, this limitation is gone in the law of 1966 which authorizes the sole condition of prior authorization, the cultivation of Vitis labrusca, with no limitation and hence to make wine and place it on the market. From
is formulated as the (very bad!) Also suggest that it is impossible to recognize a penalty from a person who makes wine grapes and strawberries without authorization to do it for their own use is to place it on the market. Can not apply the rule prohibiting the coming to market wine from vitis vinifera because it is the legislature itself to enable the making and possession of its product for commercial purposes, you can not punish cultivation without permission because no penalty is provided.
According to the letter of the law would not seem even forbidden to call the Pandora "wine", although reasons for caution (since the term "wine" confidential, as we have seen, the product of the vitis vinifera in Community law) advise against it and just call it "Pandora" or "strawberry drink made from grapes."
So, since 1966 the strawberry grapes could be grown to produce grapes for direct consumption, there is no penalty for those who sold the strawberry grapes as table grapes, wine grapes, the strawberry is permitted, it was allowed to market the product of strawberry wine grapes.
Following the entry into force of European law, the legal situation has been further amended. Regulation No. 822/1987 of 16 March 1987 established a list of varieties that can be used for the manufacture of vinous, it is expected for a temporary exemption from interspecific crossings (direct producer hybrids).
Finally, the Regulation (EC) No 1493/1999 of 17 May 1999 on the common market in wine, art. 19, stated that: "1. Member States shall classify vine varieties for wine production. All classified varieties of the species Vitis vinifera or come from a cross between this species and other species of the genus Vitis. The classification does not apply to the following varieties: Noah, Othello, Isabelle, Jacquez, Clinton and Herbémont.
2. In the classification Member States shall identify the vine varieties suitable for the production of each of the psr produced in their territory. These varieties of the species Vitis vinifera.3. Only those vine varieties which are in the classification can be planted, replanted or grafted within the Community for the production of wine. The restriction does not apply to vines used for scientific research and experiments.
4. Areas planted with vines for the production of wine is not mentioned in the classification shall be grubbed up, except in cases where the production is intended solely for the consumption of wine. "
This provision, which affirms the possibility of growing Vitis labrusca for direct consumption, did not affect much to make the Italian, with Law 4 November 1987 No. 460, which converted the DL 07/09/1987 n ° 370 had not established the obligation to eradicate the screws are prohibited, under penalty of dismissal motion at the expense of the farmer (Article 4) and had not imposed the penalty of a fine of 210,000 lire per quintal of must or wine made from grapes other than those allowed by European regulation of 1987 and held for commercial purposes, sold or given, under penalty of not less than 1,200,000 lire.
The law has forgotten all about the cultivation of strawberry fruit to use as the distillation of spirits. There is no earthly reason to prohibit this use and it is clear that the law in its concern, now obsolete, to ban the cultivation of the vine should be fully revised, if you want (or do you need to Community obligations) to maintain the ban on vinification commercial use, it must be recognized however that the strawberry grape is a fruit that is like another foolish not to cultivate.
Why so much obstinacy?
The law does not explain why the legislature has repeatedly banned the cultivation of hybrid direct producers and the trade in wine they produce, but the documents of the time they leave to suggest some hypotheses.
First, it was stated that these grapes were not suitable for proper fermentation and, moreover, was the presence of toxic substances in the skins, which, if taken in excessive doses, lead to serious physical ailments. The Clinton, for example, has a very high value tannitico that may even be toxic.
Secondly, the spread to keep out direct producer hybrids would have seriously damaged a recovery of the wine heritage town, with irreparable losses for the European and Italian culture vitienologica.
The beauty is that you continue on this road, so the current state of the matter is as follows: - It is possible to cultivate grapes strawberries throughout the Italian territory, but only for family consumption of wine. " The expression seems restrictive than the previous one which only prohibits the production for commercial purposes, but it is virtually coincident: family consumption does not exclude the possibility to give it to strangers to the family.
The obligation to grub up the vineyards that exceed the extension request for the grapes destined for domestic use, albeit enlarged, concerns only the screws for the production of wine "does not therefore apply to crops to produce table grapes.
is punishable who offers for sale wine strawberries produced by Vitis labrusca. If he then unable to produce it in another way ... I made her!
not punishable who distills grapes strawberry ..
But why try a good cup of strawberries, of Noax, a rare Clinton, when we drink the blood to gas, "said the illustrious Tullio De Rosa, the creator of the modern Prosecco, at least one hectolitre per day?
We look forward to the entry into force of the latest European standards on wines, those that in fact abolish the DOC and DOCG to introduce the DOP and see how they are treated different from Vitis vinifera grapes and wines they produce.
Meanwhile we can enjoy after dinner, a good glass of Noax.
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